Tequila’s transformation from party shot to stylish sipper
From hangover-inducer to hangover saviour - has Tequila finally gained the respect from the British public it deserves?
If you live in the UK, your first memory of Tequila is probably similar to mine: taking shots at a bar (where you were probably also underage), with a lick of salt and face-puckering suck of lime. The experience was vile, unenjoyable, and often ended with heads down the toilet bowl.
Growing up Tequila had a reputation as a party shot – the ultimate social lubricant that raised spirits and tore down inhibitions. It was an ‘upper’, a dare, a game. A ritual of beginning ‘out out’ nights on the town. At no point was Tequila perceived to be a complex, nuanced spirit that deserved contemplation. The goal was to ‘get it over with’.
Nowadays you’d get concerned looks from your bartender if you asked for lime and salt with your Tequila - has Mexico’s cherished agave spirit finally gained the respect from the British public it deserves?
In her new book, Tequila: A Tasting Course, author Millie Milliken claims that Tequila ‘has, unfairly, had an identity crisis’.
“Relegated to the party shot, and blamed for many a hangover, its colourful history, cultural importance, and the craftsmanship of its production were ignored for far too long,” she says.
“Now, however, the agave spirit is having somewhat of a renaissance. Drinkers are increasingly appreciating the complexities of good-quality tequila, topics like terroir and sustainability are being discussed more fervently, and bartenders are creating more classics for us to enjoy at the bar and at home.”
This newfound reverence could be partially due to the wave of celebrity-endorsed brands from Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson, Kylie Jenner, George Clooney and Eva Longoria that’s thrust premium Tequila into the spotlight, along with more palatable serves.
The bulk of sales have been driven by the US, where demand for lower-calorie, gluten-free drinks has - rightly or wrongly - cemented Tequila as a ‘spirit for the health conscious’.
*Disclaimer: all distilled spirits are gluten and sugar-free, unless they’ve had gluten or sugar added post-distillation. Tequila is permitted to contain up to 1% sugar or jarabe, oak extract, caramel colouring or glycerin without declaring it on the label.
One growth driver has been the comeback of the Margarita, a cocktail that originated in the 1930s and celebrated its heyday during the 1970s.
Nowadays you’ll rarely pass a cocktail menu that hasn’t some version of a Margarita, from the classic Tommy’s (named after Julio Bermejo’s legendary San Franciscan bar) to spicy, chilli-rimmed variations and passionfruit-laced concoctions. You can even buy a plethora of delicious Margaritas in cans, from brands such as Moth, Pimentae and Whitebox.
According to Nielsen data, the Margarita is now the UK’s favourite cocktail, with demand for ready-made drinks soaring 150% and kicking the Mojito off Tesco’s list of most popular ready-to-drink cocktails.
But is Tequila’s popularity in cocktails enough to shake off its reputation as a party shot? The influx of quality, 100% agave Tequilas now available in supermarkets means there’s never been more choice or opportunity to get to know the agave spirit better.
It’s time to throw away the salt and lime and embrace Tequila, not just for its ability to make a killer Margarita, but also for its craftsmanship, complexity and variety.
5 of the best blanco Tequilas to try:
Each with a remarkably different flavour, these blancos are a great introduction to Tequila and perfect for sipping and mixing in cocktails from Margaritas to Palomas.
Ocho Plata, 40% abv
A crisp and bright Tequila with herbaceous notes of fresh cut grass and a touch of minerality and earthiness.
£27.50, thewhiskyexchange.com
Altos Plata, 38% abv
Produced in the Highlands of Jalisco using a traditional Tahona wheel, Altos has a citrus-forward flavour profile of sweet lemons and agave, making a perfect option for Margaritas.
£30.50, waitrose.com
Codigo 1530 Blanco, 38% abv
Herbaceous, smooth and perfect for sipping neat or on ice, Codigo is made using lowland agave that gives floral aromas of mint and grass with a slight pepperiness beneath.
£42.25, thewhiskyexchange.com
Cenote Blanco, 40%
A bright, citrus-forward Tequila with subtle vanilla and wood flavours from a short mellowing in American oak barrels for three weeks. Beautiful as the base for a Tegroni (Tequila Negroni).
£47, masterofmalt.com
Fortaleza Blanco, 40% abv
Made using agave crushed entirely with a tahona wheel and distilled in copper pot stills, Fortaleza’s unaged Tequila has a buttery, olive earthiness with a rich vegetal quality kissed by a hint of citrus. A sublime Tequila that’s perfect for slow sipping.
£68, hedonism.co.uk
Want to learn more about Tequila? Order your ticket now for drink this’ Tequila Masterclass with Millie Milliken in Brighton, on 12th November.